cranberry beans and aji
Back in January I visited Chile and the Secano Interior lands with dry farmed old vines and great history. The info is plunked into this April's issue of TFL, devoted to the campesinos making pipeños don't know what that is? Well, sign up and find out. But there were outtakes to my story and a summer dish of beans and beauty was one of them
During the stay I was treated to several homemade versions of a soup or a stew that was a staple, Porotos Granados. Delicious.
You'll see it everywhere. It's like the jonjoli of Georgia -- you can't have a meal or gathering without seeing it on the table. It's so welcoming with big sheets of sliced corn from a local variety that is as thick as a giants forearm. Beautiful sure but the taste is uncommonly intense for the simplicity of the ingredients.
One of the first I sampled was at an impromptu picnic in Roberto Henriquez's vineyard-- from extremely talented hands.
To the left is the chef, Felipe Macera. The right, the talented winemaker Marcelo Retamal.
Another soupish stew came to my bowl through Manuel Moraga's charming life partner, the flaming-haired Paola Marini, who kindly sent me this recipe.
Paola's Portos Granados
We use a fresh summer bean, that is planted for this meal named Juanita or Pajarito the mostly known , planted in farms and small vegetable gardens to cook this traditional plate at Summer time.
+ 1/2 kilo summer fresh beans (cranberry beans)
+4 medium sweet corn kernels ... 3 grated of the cob and 1 cut off the cob to get a milky solution ...
+a squirt of milk
+1 liter and 1/2 water
+Onions chopped in small cubes
Olive oil
+Thyme (Chascudo in Chilean)
+Aji Cacho de Cabra (this is a small fresh hot picked pepper)
fresh from the stem
+Small pinch of ground black pepper
+Ground red pepper
Heat the olive oil and add the onions ,black pepper, ground red pepper ...the whole fresh hot aji split open but whole and about 15 sprigs of thyme.
Put in the beans stir for a minute and add the corn and the liter of cold water. Once it boils, you might want to add a bit more of water and boil softly for a liquid finish .. add the squirt of milk.
It should take about 3/4 of a hour until beans are ready .
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That's it.
Note: I have seen red squash or pumpkin added or the thyme replaced with basil, or some cumin seed. Put the squash in with the beans. And remember, just add enough water to cover.
Paola kind of cheats at lunch by making a pesto to go with her porotos. Well, she is Italian, after all.
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