The Feiring Line

The Eyrie Vineyard Library

 

I snuck out of my cave on this brilliant day to taste some old Willamette Valley Eyrie Vineyards. It is always such a treat to see Jason Lett hold forth on his family's estate.  For one, he is an excellent speaker, natural and  unguarded, has a lovely expressive use of language. Also, the love he has for his legacy is inspiring.  

I'm always touched to hear a winery stops at their max,  8000 cases. They did that  in 1983 and stayed at that volume. The need not to grow? How refreshing to see someone do what they do and do it well and, be satisfied.  No need for world domination.  

It seems that David, his father, was obsessive about keeping a huge amount in the wine libary, at this point about 6,000 bottles deep. At one time Jason thought he'd get away and do his own thing. but  in 2004 when his dad needed help for harvest he showed up and never left.

When his father got sick, he allowed Jason to find his ownway though the wines.

I'm sure there was much argument, after all, David was a difficult, loveable, hard headed guy (from my limited knowledge and tales that have been told) but one of the more touching comments was that every time Jason tastes from the library one of his father's vintages, the collaboration continues. I love this idea of conversing with ones ghostly parents through the wines they made.

 

Eyrie Pinot Meunier. 1993!

A twenty year old pineo meunier from two different plots, high acid, high tone and high delight. Made me feel like playing Frank Zappa. An absolutel beauty. Look for it on choice and lucky wine lists and I bet I know which ones. This wine was pure forest wild strawberries, long delight  and showed no sign of tiring. 

 1993 Chardonnay Estate

(picked at 21 brix) elegant, floral and compelling.

1983 South Block Pinot

A dancer in disguise, etheral, skimmed the floor with elegance and endurance

 and finally.......

1974 Pinot Noir Estate

Sorry, not available. This was the scond year the south block gave fruit and made up 45% of the cuvee.  It is not only a beautiful old lady, but it is the  Queen Mother in high heels. Smoky, touch of tannin and grip with strawberry pinched in wintergreen.

 

A treat for the mid day.

 Heading out on my bike, I had a last minute lament with a colleague. We admited to major guilt.  Too much writing, not enough tasting. Were we losing our edge?  Were we not up on vintages and regions. Had we missed something? She went off tasting. I went back to my cubicle. Where is the balance. Take this as a warning; a tongue must be used or else it is lost. I'm on the hunt for mine.

 

Salon des Vins de Loire, 2011

 Tasting within the disembodiement of the shows, under flourescents and on carpeted topped off cement was wearing on my nerves. But with pencil and hand, trying not to be sullen, I was soon happy enough at the Salon des Vins de Loire.  2010 was certainly a year, fortune smiled on the the Loire, from Nante to Sancerre. 

Domaine Le Grange Tiphaine in Ambroise/Tourainne/(and some Montlouis); Damien & Coralie are pure adorableness and also have some lovely old vines. The 2010s are fantastic. Straight up and down beauts. Of particular note; Le Clef du Sol, chenin from Montlouis. Le Clef du Sol from Ambroise, 35 % Côt and 65 % Cabernet franc from clay and limestone (fresh bitten, tart berry) and the old vines Cot. Really, you can't go wrong. Lovely wines. (Jenny & Francois)
 

Domaine Baudry From the amazing Chinon domaine. Brilliant in both 2009 and 10. As one would expect, lush in '09, structure in '10. I'll be laying down some of both. Which ones? Les Grezeaux (clay and gravel stone, sour noise, crushed eggshell nose. Round in the middle with some sort of other worldly-like dimension.) Les Granges? Sure! Rich and acid with plenty of flesh. In  general, can't wait for them to lose their baby fat. (LDM)

 I forgot about Sancerre, but tasting at Domaine Vacheron and Vincent Gaudry reminded me to remember. Beautiful wines. I always do like Vacheron, but this time, Gaudry was a revelation.  

Gaudry's Le Tournebride was yes, extremely ripe but stony, apricot and acid.  The Vielle Vignes was killer: fresh old ladies perfume, wild.  

Vincent also showed some pretty, pretty sancerre rouges.

'09 Vincengétorix: sancerre rouge. Powdery, Chanel #5- like, with low fruit and high texutre.  

'08 Les Sang des Serfs; smoke, whole cluster gorgeousness that was so damned thrilling. Lots of acid and vibrancy.  Sadly, only 500 bottles. 

 

+Honorable mention: Clos Cristal.  They've changed their farming and the wines are begining to sink. I particularly liked the youngest and freshest that sees no wood... their 2009. Brett lover alert, just a touch. Zingy acid. The 2010s were all pre-malo, hard to tell but looks promising.

+ Really did like theseDomaine de la Chevalerie 2009    

Any of them, and the winemaker is so adorable. She reminds me of a cross between Pascaline and my publisher's daughter Marie.

Angers & Renaissance (France 2011 #4)

Life on the road was intense. I changed hands and beds once more. Hooked up with my friend thegoddessofwine (yes, I know, but she's Linda, what are we going to do. She is the goddess as well as an amazing sommelier.) We were also meeting ma fille Francaise.   

who really should have won le meilleur sommelier de France, except she wasn't wearing une petite talon(high heels! more on that farce later).  The three of us are, and hopefully always will be....

 

               

photo by Annaick le Mignon

 

Look out!  

Our first stop was the  Renaissance tasting, Nicolas Joly's roving biodynamic wine show. This is one of the years best tasting. The level of high quality wine far outnumbers any other show I go to. Nicolas, by the way, was the first person I bumped into.

 Nicolas cracks me up. In fact over the next few days when I lapsed into oh-poor-me, I would think about him and start to belly laugh. Which in proper France brought side glances of shock and fear.

Near the coat rack we embraced and then he started to pick up exactly where we left off last February as if no time had past. Last year it was Haiti and the economy. This year the planets were in a different place and it was about Tunisia and Egypt. You see,  the planets were are all lined up somewhere underneath Orion's belt and long underwear. Last year it was doom, gloom and brimstone.This year it was the planets and Tunisia. All was good.  I went into the tasting in a fine mood, laughing.

Every one and his mother and uncle who ever lived in the United States was in that room. In fact, France was owned by the Americans this year, many of them looking to be the next Joe Dressner, if that could ever happen.

When Joe started out there were discoveries. Now, there are none. You're just not going to discover some savant shlep who's family has been making wine in a cave in some unknown appellation for six generations anymore. What you'll find are new kids on the block who are renting vines or others who have already recycled through importers, looking for love in all the wrong places. But yet,  yet. ...we tasted. 

What touched us? I hooked Linda's arm, Pierre André. 

"Chateauneuf?" she asked. Quelle horreur! No. 

In insisted. She was happy.

Jacqueline, Pierre's shy daughter took over years back. Old world here. This stuff is beautiful, refined even her white in the scary 2009 vintage. It was fresh!

Reds

2007: Fresh and depth.

2006  80% grenache with the rest syrah, mourvedre, cinsault etc, the wine is elegant, fresh, lovely and...balanced. 

2005 More tannic, and that old fashioned shit called garrique. Bring it on.

2004 Shut down. One direction. Okay. 

Alsatian producer, Francois Barmes, Barmes Buecher. New to me.  Glad we took the chance. Especially because he's got some vines in Hengst and Rosenberg. Lovely wines.

2008 Rosenberg: grapes were washed over stone. This is the one that grabbed me.

(honorable mention goes to Josmeyer, very over-looked winemaker in this market)

Highlights for me were:

Stella di Campalto wines from Montalcino. Gorgeous and inspiring rossos and brunellos.

Bedel Champagnes.

In Bordeaux? Sure! 2008 Gombaude-Guillot of  Pomerol as well as the 2008 Ch. le Puy (roasted fennel, limestone/star). 2008 was difficult but the people who worked organically/biodynamically seemed to sing.

I continue to love the Clos Canarelli from Corsica, especially the cuvée from anfora. The 2009 Oray which is pie franc, planted en foule was roasted plum and delicious.

The Tourraine's Clos Roche Blanche, ah..my DRC. The '10 sauvignon is just gorgeous with a high dose of elderflower. When I had the '10 gamay, tannic, structure and velvet.

Pineau d'aunis alert! In '10 there is a CRB red Arpent Rouge! There hasn't been one since 2006. (My wine of the year for 2007).Right now it's rough, and angular but it will come together and Didier is just going to bide his time til it's ready.   

Pithon Paille, Joe Pithon's comeback wines have hit their stride. '09 Les Treilles  was angular and austere, like peroxide washing the teeth but you have to trust me, exciting if too young. 

More Muscadet moments were had at Guy Bossard. 2010 gneiss, licorice on acid. limpid.

Orthogneiss- quieter, more restrained. 

Granite: floral, fruity, hints of vermont mountain. 

There was a muscadet for every mood. Terroir  is really fun.

Les Sablonettes? Oui.Christine & Joel Ménard make better and better wine every year. Look for them in 2010. From their cabernets, Le Petite Blanc to the Diable and the Pivoine

Then, contemplating it all, I  looked over at a New York  sommelier, tasting at Agnes Mosse. She is used to grand cru for breakfast. She looked as giddy as a princess who went to dance with the common people.

Have to say, am loving tasting 2010. Just loving it. 

Pity Poor Albariño

If there's justice, which is dubious, one day Albariño will have its soul and nature returned to it, and will cease to be this plump mouthed injectable creation it has become.

A similar body-snatching happened with Beaujolais when wine writers (many who should know better) started to perpetuate the myth that the grapes natural characteristics included  banana aromatics. So, many will be just as gullible to continue to propel this fallacy into the future unless we all stomp our feet and say, no no no!

Here's the bit of a press release that put me in a holiday snit.

"Albariño has a unique flavor and a natural acidity (SO MUCH THAT MOST IMPLEMENT ACID REDUCTION)  with a clean finish. The wine is often described as expressive, with peach and apricot notes, or crisp and refreshing, with intense fruit flavors, such as green apples and lemon zest. Albariño complements a variety of party favorites, such as bruschetta, baked brie (WHEN IS THE LAST TIME  YOU HAD A BAKED BRIE?), soups and chowders, ham, fruit cake, (FRUIT CAKE?? SWEETS? WHAT? THIS IS SOMEONE'S IDEA OF A BAD JOKE FOR WINE/FOOD PAIRINGS?) tarts and apple crisp.

About Albariño from Spain
Albariño (al-ba-ree-nyo) is a white grape varietal grown in the D.O. (Denomination of Origin) of Rías Baixas, located in Galicia on Spain's Northwest coast. Accounting for 90 percent of all plantings in Rías Baixas, Albariño wine has been likened to a Riesling for its minerality and bracing acidity; to a Viognier, because of its fleshiness (FLESHY? HOW MUCH GUM ARABIC IS GOING INTO YOUR ALBARINO?)and peach/apricot character.

 

What do I think Albarino is? High acid, lemon pith and peel and some orange, some times some green almond and sometimes a touch of cream. The nose is compelling, I stretch up on my toes for some descriptors, but the best I can do is spring right before zero summer. 

Here are two renegades who do the wines justice. 

BENITOS SANTOS (between $12-$18)

 2008 Albarino Sair: lemon, acid, profound nose, wool and honey perfume. 

2006 Albarino Pago de Bemil: round, deep, honey, acidity out of yummy control, salty. 

2007 Albarino Pago de Xoan: more acid freaky stuff with wool and lemon, a little closed but still sings.

 *PEDRALONGA  (between $30-$80)

2007 Albarno Barrica-acid sneaks up on you and wraps around the estony meyer lemon. 

2005 Vendetta: You might faint at the sight of the bottle price but these Vendettas are serious business and almost like a vendetta against the crap albarinos out there as if to say, fuck you guys. This is important. Listen up. The honey suckle here is what gets me. 

2006 Vendetta: I have a slight preference for the 06, seems to have more depth with a touch of hazel nut, lower aromatics yet increased layers of complexity. 

Els Jelipins (part 2)

In the beginning, Oriol who with his wife Gloria and wee daughter Berta make up the GOB of the Penedes wine bottled as Els Jelipins, met Rene Barbier who said to him, "You're crazy like me." The superstar winemaker (Clos Mogador, married to Sara Perez) invited him out to the winery and to learn. Through Rene, Oriol met the whole intense Priorat the -fatter -the- wine- the- better crew and he learned how to make those 92+ point wines. Oriol said, "At first I thought wine was poetry. I realized it often was just the recipe." Part of the recipe was cold soaking up to a week with quite a bit of sulfur. Then, adjust the temperature to about 30-degrees centigrade (pretty hot) for fermentation to kick in and extract. Remember to punch down or/and pumpover often. Give plenty of oxygen into the juice (MOX aka micro oxygenation), rack into new barrels, MOX each month. "That's the low-tech version of a recipe wine," he said. Add the tricks like yeasts and enzymes etc, for the high tech version. Yet, the man grew unhappy using the recipe geared towards the big critic. Until one day, and there is always that one day, Oriol met the head buyer for Lavinia. "She was friends with a lot of people in France and she started to show me those wines and I started to think differently. I also met Maria Theresa Mascarello and she too told me that wine could be different. I realized that making wine in the way I had been trained was depressing me." Even in a bad picture, he and Gloria are lovely. He and Gloria who worked together at the Priorat winery, were by then a couple, and went out on their own, still making conventional wine before 2003 and then they broke out. That was the first year they vinified without yeast. "We were so afraid because everyone told us the wine wouldn't ferment. My wife was crying every day with fear." It fermented as if thumbing its nose at the cautionary tales of yeast and its vices. By then Oriol and I were on the road to rendezvous with three more Americans. We pulled up to a small cafe where wine importer Jose Pastor was waiting, with his two charges, Farm Wine imports Keven Clancy and Chris Barnes of Chambers Street. Chris's eyes were ringed in dark and his face was blending into a reptile green. I looked at the puddle of canned mussels in the middle of the table, next to a beer and I thought, "Uh, oh. Poor guy." Then we took off to the GOB's household and the road was so twisty I almost was reduced to crawling on my knees as well, this was more than just sympathy pains. I get car sick on those roads unless I'm behind the wheel. Note to self. Placed in the wilderness, in the middle of views, and smells, and dogs, was their house and garden and rustic winery, with a spring green wall as a backdrop and there, in front of the olive oil barrel like amphora, some more story was unwrapped. "We used to make Parker wine," Oriol started up his story once more. "In 2002 we were going to leave the wine world. It was depressing. Cynical. The way we worked with yeast and new oak and enzymes and everything was against everything we believed in. It was against our nature."" But now?? No temperature control. No SO2. No cold maceration. No pumps. No racking. Whole cluster (most of the years, but sometimes 20-30%). Some pigeage in small tanks. No battonage and no racking before bottling. Yes to amphora (2006 red and white were done in amphora), they don't like the lifelessness of stainless. "Inox reacts to electricity, it's not good for the wine," was the answer. The wine often macerates for 4-5 months. Sumoll is quite tannic and like Bea's philosophy for sagrantino, long maceration softens aggression. They also do a long elevage because they want their wine to be 1) stable 2) ready upon release. Right now look for the 2004. Upstairs. Gloria cooked chickpeas! Waiting in the bathroom were teensie kittens. I seemed to have an inexplicable draw to the toilet so I could cuddle the kittens. As a self-professed cat hater. Never say never. ++ 2003 Red---70% sumoll, 30% garnacha It's a different silty animal. Etheral and elegant. Brickish notes. Extremely spicy with a tumeric sort of nose and white fruit, something like gooseberries and almost similar to a barolo if the barolo has some dried cherry, Earl Grey Tea and firm expressive tannins. "Sometimes there's even a stem inside the bottle," Oriel says. "We work dirty." 2004: powerful acid punch on the long finish. Veru strong, mica like? Why do I say that? Who the hell knows. Cherry. Skunk, just a touch. But plenty of life and jumps. 2005: Firmer cherry, bluer in color, back to barolo and I'm stretching for something, slate-like nuance on top of a sun-dried tomato, ripe cherry and sangiovese grown on clay. 2006- this puppy had extended maceration up to five months and the result is almost a honeydew aroma and juiciness. 20% of this was made in amphora. But wait! Some puppy breath, or was it kitten breath? Just a hint and it is in conjunction with the cherry. They also do a little parellada which, in the Penedes usually finds its way into cava. The 2006 was bottled directly from the amphora. They make so little of it. One day they want to zoom up to a whopping 2.000 bottles, and maybe, just maybe they can one day quite their day jobs. What are they after? Oriol said as we gathered some wild mint for Chris to take in the car to guard against the bad mussels, "When you drink a wine, and you have an impression, and you are impressed, and you feel something so deeply you can't describe it, that is what I want."

++ If you want to try some of the wines, and they are expensive, Jenny & Francois brings the wine into the country except for California which is Jose Pastor Selections.

I might add that their friendly decision to share them is exemplary and makes me happy. Saying good bye, I started a two day voyage with the boys and who could guess that we were off to another paradise, complete with a disco for the wild boar under the lure of the cherry trees.

In Praise of Jose Pastor

Jose Pastor, a relocated to California Valencian madman, has developed an astounding and brave portfolio over the past year. In California, Jose Pastor Selectionsis distributed by Farm Imports, (the power team of Jeff Vierra and Keven Clancy) who also distribute the LDM wines. You can see, the bar is high, and Jose's portfolio fits in like a perfect dovetail joint. 

When I arrived, the event was in full eswing. The place was packed with happy tasters. Few knew that Jose, Jeff and Keven had just barely, but eskillfully, averted a collective nervous breakdown. Imagine, coming into a place where you're expecting 200+ people to taste-but the venue (Bar Agricole) is a construction zone. The dream team did some fancy two-stepping, rented some umbrellas, aired the soccer game. eSpain won and so did the wines. Jose, who I must disclose is my friend, has assembled a collection of growers who have the power to open the door on freshness and excitement for eSpanish wines. I mean, think of it, ...an importer who has the balls to aim for wines that are terroir driven, uninoculated, no added biting acid and no forced deacidification. Acid freaks unite and celebrate. Not only that, a sense of place? From Spain, no less! From the country that had fallen for the points and the power like the last slate of domino? But, instead, Jose has shown that there is another Spain, a Spain that could have been forgotten and lost and still exists. 

Over the past year Jose has weeded some out of his portfolio and has added some forces of natural nature. If his people do well, the message will be delivered to the others who would rather not pump their wines into hormonal submission--that they don't have to. The wines are fantastic. Spain lives. 

 While talking about one's friends wines can be difficult and suspect,you have to understand that I have become close with people like Joe Dressner, Jenny Lefcourt, Becky Wasserman, Hank Beckmeyer and Jose because of a strong connection in mission and palate and bits of chemistry that knit people together. After all of this time, you have to either trust me to be true to my palate or not. I made my choice, now you have to decide if I'm full of shit or not. And so with that full disclosure, let me tell you how I feel about my favorite wines.

 Ah, albarino! Remember when it used to be terrific? It still can be.

BENITOS SANTOS (DO/Rias Baixas) You might remember that I visited Todd Blomberg, the American vigneron who makes three single vineyard wines, in Galicia last February, the wines sing here just as much as there. 

 2008 Albarino Sair: lemon, acid, profound nose, wool and honey perfume. 

2006 Albarino Pago de Bemil: round, deep, honey, acidity out of yummy control, salty. 

2007 Albarino Pagp de Xoan: more acid freaky stuff with wool and lemon, a little closed but still sings.

 *PEDRALONGA 

2007 Albarno Barrica-acid sneaks up on you and wraps around the estony meyer lemon. 

2005 Vendetta: You might faint at the sight of the bottle price but these Vendettas are serious business and almost like a vendetta against the crap albarinos out there as if to say, fuck you guys. This is important. Listen up. The honey suckle here is what gets me. 

2006 Vendetta: I have a slight preference for the 06, seems to have more depth with a touch of hazel nut, lower aromatics yet increased layers of complexity. 

2006 Pedralonga Do Umia tinto: Love alert! A rare red wine from the area, a blend of Caino/Espadeiro, makes for a wax begonia of a drink, elegant, gentle tannins, nicely knit structure and lots of baby powder florality. 

 *GALGUEIRA (DO Valdeorras) 

 08 Godella Seleccion; rich and honeydew 09 Mencia: fresh bitten plum in tar with a long finish and zing fresh acid blast. 

 *GUIMARO (DO, Ribeira Sacra) (Pedro is a sweetheart) '08 BGB Godello- deep into honey aromatic, and lilt on the back of palate.

 *MENGOBA (DO Bierzo) Gregory Perez is one fucking talented winemaker--just buy every white he makes.These are whites to decant, think Savenierres. '

07: Mengoba Godello & Dona Blanca: some oxidation, wet wool, chenin-like with greengage plum 

09 Brezo Mencia: done in stainless, this is a huge and satisfying, fresh value--with some road dust on the red plum to keep it interesting. 

 *PRETO (DO Tierra de Leon--also from Gregory) '07 Prieto Picudo Tinto-yum, purely delicious plum love.

 THE CANARY ISLANDS Jose earns sainthood for bringing several wines from the Canary Islands to the United States wine glass. Remember these grapes: Listan Blanco (aka Palamino),Listan Nero (Mission)  

*TAJINASTE (DO, Valle de La Orotava--Tenerife) 

09 Blanco (Listan Blanco)--dusty, perfumed, very dry, and very fresh and enlivening.

*Los Bermjos (Lanzarote) 

 NV Espumoso: pretty, interesting and dry. ' 

 MONJE (Acentego) 

 '02 Evento, Listan Blanco; Honey, acid, INTENSE

 '00 Autor Reserva: That's right, a properly mature blend of Lisatan Negro, Negramoll and Listan Blanco--such rustic delicacy, with acidity and a strawberry finish and of a place. Bravo. 

*FRONTON DE ORO(Gran Canaria) I love these wines. All three of them. 

'09 Tinto Tradicional: refined and elegant with subtle fruit and some grit. '08 Tinto Malpais. Very interesting! Lovely tannins, blueberry and some roasted jerusalem artichoke (must have been the day) 

 '08 Tinto Tintilla: an acid strawberry trip, with elegant dusting of cocoa. 

 *TIERRAS DE APONTE (Abona)

 '09 Tinto: wow! wild with some earthy gasoline with white pepper and finishes with a blast of fruit. Quite the ride. 

*CARBALLO (La Palma) (great story from Jose: He asked Eliseo why his wines dont have the DO for La Palma, and Eliseo said they weren't aromatic enough--in other words, wrote, Jose, they don't have added aromatic yeast. His listan nero & blanco were gorgeous)

 '08 Listan Blanco--intense and nutty with a sherry melon oxidation, think the jura, Will bend your palate in a good way.

 *TANAJARA (El Hierro)

 '07 Tinto Vijariego: Chateauneuf meets Austrian cabernet franc

  Gregory, Pedro Pecina & Pedro Guimaro 

 And with this I almost rest my case.

 What followed for me was Pecina--the Rioja that first brought me to Jose in the first place. (The white, by the way is delicious and has nothing in common with the fruity white shit that comes out of Rioja these days) and the 2001 Rioja Vendimia Seleccionada, is deeply satisfying with a pressed spice on antique plum.

 Tasting the Primitivo Quiles from Alicante--always exciting. 

The Cono is young style of the Monastrell grape--silky with a chestnut honey finish.

 The 2004 Raspay Tinto is chalk & chocolate, and much fresher than the 2003. Up in a few days I'll circle back to the crazy and spirited Laureano Serres and Mendall wines, as well as the sensitive wines of the El Jelepins.

2009 Beaujolais

Last week's visit to Morgon with Eric Texier seemed a long, long time ago when I walked into a 2009 tasting of the Beaujolais on Rue Rivoli yesterday afternoon. The promoters called it Fabuleux Beaujolais 2009, a tasting through all of the crus. A great opportunity, in theory. Beaujolais. There are so many good ones. The region complains that they cannot get a foothold amongst drinkers but can't they see that the ones that are acclaimed like those from Lapierre, Chanudet & Foillard, Breton, Thevenet, Lapalu, J-P Brun, Coquelet, L&C Desvignes, de la Roilette, G. Descombes, and Ducroux, have no trouble selling? Why instead do they follow the espoofers instead of the true? So I walked into the hotel, through the lobby, picked up a glass and gave a nod of hello to the elegant M. Dubouef (in a dove grey suit) I had a go at it. Now, the 2009 Beaujo is being as heralded as the 2009 Bordeaux and both have the same problem as most of the country did in that year: high pH and low acidity = unstability and plenty of adjustment. Not to say that there aren't a heck of a lot of lovely wines out there, but it is certainly a year to be dedicated to your favorite producers who picked at the best time and didn't make wine according to recipe. But yet---it's the vintage of two -centuries---right? I was assaulted with (wine and after wine) thermo-vinification, banana and bubblegum aromas, and a nuclear burning in my mouth. Acidification is out of control in 2009. Burn, baby, burn, I heard myself thinking and headed off looking for an ice cube..when to my surprise, over at the Morgon table, I saw Mathieu Lapierre, the son of Marcel (who's wife just fed Eric and me some plump white asparagus the week before). "What ever are you doing in this company!" I said as I gave him two kisses. He explained, slyly, as he poured me some of the '09, that the day was the 21st, and as it was the night where all of France was lit up with street music, he wanted to be in Paris. "A good excuse," he said. His excuse was my salvation. The wine (which was not the unsulfured cuvee) was filled with baby powder and crushed roses. Yes, an '09 in heft, but Lapierre in elegance. That night I too headed out into the street to listen to music. It was Paris in all its glow and a 1l2 moon over the Seine. I aimed for the left bank, where the assortment of jazz, vintage, or voices raising up to the stars on blocked off streets, changed with every few steps. The feeling was joyous and innocent, sexual and raunchy. A perfect little nicoise on Rue de Seine at Poisson (creamy walnut-sized quail's eggs, marinated anchois) some young students traveling before they took on the world and presumed adulthood, and for the moment, the burn of the sad wines of '09 left, washed down by some enlivened, unacidified Pascal Franck bubbles and a fierce walk back to the 8th.

Portland Indie Wine Festival: Wine Watch

The Portlan Indie Festival is staged this coming weekend. The fest was by Lisa Donoughe (and a friend) who had the idea to give a little help to the little guy; wineries and winemakers too small to get into other exhibitions, and it's worked. Lisa's lemonade stand fesetival kick off plenty of new and exciting names in the Oregon wine world. No! That's not Oregon, I'm just kidding you! Oregon mostly irrigates--so where is this? (Clue, most of this place irrigates as well, but just not this vineyard) I was there in March to help judge the wines for presentation. These aren't scored, just judged to see which wines should be shown. As a judge, we did not taste all the wines, just those assigned to out panels. I'm sure I missed out on a wide assortment of goods. But here are some impressions from my modest sampling of sixty wines. #1- 2007 was a hard year to mess up for pinot--at least that's what I thought for the first flight! #2- Except for the exception (such as Eyrie Vineyards who can do no wrong) many just do not know what to do with pinot gris. #3- By the second flight, I found plenty of folk who messed up in 2007, with lovely aromas of sauerkraut and the like. #4--I think that malbec does well in the south! Here, here Rogue Valley! I have not done my research so I don't know for sure how the wines that I liked were made or anything about them--ROified, acidified, enzymaticized or dustified. as I wanted to show them to you (and to me) without prejudice, merely based on the tasting. Should you head to Portland and taste this weekend, visit my favorites and let me know what you think. * Vitae Springs Vineyard: pinot noir V. pretty nose. Some warmth and florality. Kinda yummy. Nice acidity. Rosy. Tarry. And a definite lack of concentration which seems right to me! *Ribera Vineyards, Stormy Mtn. Vineyard: pinot noir Quiet nose, which I appreciated. Honeysuckle. Cedar. A little flat on the finish, but big deal. *Dukes Family Vineyard Alyssa: pinot noir Ink. Water. Rose. Kltzy. Minty-menthol and someone underipe spice. But, it all picks up on the finish! It sneaks under the finish line! Flight two---was awful---a flight of 2007s...so much for not being able to mess up a vintage! Flight Three *Cubanisimo Vineyards 2008: pinot noir Money! It smells like money! Felt well made, but to me somewhat uninspired, calibrated and schooled. Not my thing, but on the other hand, not bad. Outside of my palate, but know quite a few people who would like it. *Gresser Vineyard 2008: pinot noir Might have been my second favorite. Quiet. Great acidity. Long length and salty! This needs some time to balance itself. *Luminous Hills: 200 pinot noir This got my highest marks for queen ann cherry that starts on the nose and carries through on the palate with an inkwell finish. *Seven Bridges --08 red blend: merlot & malbec Licorice, balance, earth, fruit, hot, hot finish but has interest.

Joe vs. the Volcano; LDM tasting 2010

What did I love @ the LDM, Louis/Dressner tasting? Well, the wines! Mr. Dressner, while looking fine, was not in the best of moods. He hung in there but I bet he was disappointed many of his vignerons were stuck behind the wall of volcanic ash and not on Lafayette Street. Then Obama was in town. Mr. O promised to show, but never did. He has no idea what he's missing. We could have set the White House right. Then because of the traffic, the food was stuck on the Brooklyn Bridge. But that was okay. We were more than well taken care of! Jean-Paul Brun always has something surprising to show. And If you're looking for a great Cremant, he's got one. Cremant de Bourgogne, NV--fizz and mineral. Totally refreshing. House sparkling stuff. VDP Roussane '08! Charming. Charming. Charming. for the '09 Beaujo? Brouilly-- had lots of ground ivy and you know how I love that. Fleurie--angularity Damien Coquelet Chiroubles '09--velvet and easy on the eyes. Georges Descombes '07 Bouilly VV--this held my interest. '07 Morgon VV--depth, the fruit is deep inside the texture. Baudry '09 Rose alert! This is one for you. Sorry, anti-flavorites, there's plenty of it here. Domaine de la Pepiere I liked the '07 Granite de Clisson so much I went out and bought a magnum. the '09 Clos des Briords was so ripe, it reminded me of Luneau-Papin '08 Gras Moutons---now, that one was tart & angular. Like a feisty friend. Thierry Puzelat (what a great surprise. I had no idea he dodged the volcano) It was a Puzelat day. Everything was shining. His '09's are brilliant. '09 Touraine Blanc le P'tit Blanc--cheap and extremely cheerful. Yum. '08 Bouisson Pouilleux-- If you're looking for a sauvignon blanc to shock--go for this. VA on the nose but plenty of thrill. '09 Touraine Gamay La Butte--Atypical but terrific.Flesh, kirsch, brooding and a great and long finish. '09 Cheverny Rouge--velvet, acid, pure delish. Franck Peillot From Bugey, such a nice gu. '08 Rousette de Bugey Altesse---dusty lemons in campania Eric Texier Can't wait to visit him in June '09 Fukuoka--he uses 27 grapes in this one, kind of like the Hearty Burgundy of old. Anti-flavor alert. '08 blanc--east '07 Chateauneuf blanc--the world's only refreshing CnP Blanc. melon and lemon '08 Brezeme--polished '07 Brezeme Rouge VV domaine de pergault no notes. Best overheard statement after a guest tasted the '07 Chateauneuf -du-pape "That is spectacular' the guest said after he spit. The wine was big, it was '07. As the man walked away and Eric said, "It may be spectacular, but I don't like it." Bera Vittorio& Figli I love these wines, the Moscato d'asti is so damned delicate '06 Dolcetto--needs time. '07 Barbera d;Asti Ronco Malo, like a red lemon sauce with spark. Maule, La Biancara '09 Veneto Bianco Masierie---damn those notes, garganega and plenty of stars. But the CRAZIEST wine for me for the day was the '08 Rosso Masieri --merlot. Cigarette ash and plum? Crazy. In one of those silly moments, I passed up the Roagna, I barely tasted at Radikon. You see, I see others taking intense notes on all of the wines, and with a little more Virgo in my chart, I would too. But I did finish up with some of Francesca Padovani's pretty, pretty wines from Tuscany. Go for the ;04 Brunello --with it's rustic, spicy, grippiness. Arianni Occhipintii? Everyone's darling! New vintages step up to the plate. Like the '09 SP 68--this has got a month maceration and it is a very lush and meaty wine. Then the '07 Frappato--getting better every minute ,edge, cherry, tar---and two months of maceration. The food finally arrived, Obama didn't. I left. And promised to return that night to Ten Bells.

Champagne!

Just back from the International Champagne and Sparkling Wine Invitational, 2010, in New Orleans, which while off to a rocky start with a blowing up volcano, and a lot of stranded Champenois, organizers, Peter Wasserman and team, including the fabulous Laura Maniec, some locals, especially Sara Kavanaugh pitched in and pulled off an original idea that was begging to happen. Also on board, Peter Liem, Charles Curtis, Fred Dexheimer but mostly the stars were bottle and winemaker. The concept was unprecedented. A weekend devoted to champagne and sparklers from growers? 74 sparkling producers, many of the vignerons installed. two tired sommeliers And even more? They came from all over, and were grateful to be there. I shared a panel with the always frank Lisa Granik (MW) and we presented sparklers of the world. I asked the group who showed up, what are you doing here and not in champagne? The heart warming answer was, "To learn something." Curiosity! May it never leave human kind. That said, I was also pleased that the non champagne wine of the weekend was the Robert & Bernard Plageoles Mauzac. ($15). pix courtesy of Mr. Anthony Wilson. Full disclosure, I was pouring the wine for Jenny Lefcourt, who couldnt make it but as I never get to be on the front line with the consumer, I found it a great opportunity. To hell with folk wanting conventional. One buyer from Houston of all places kept on coming back, " I can't believe this wine," she said. It has a mind of its own. it don't take no shit from no one." The wine was like a wacky sandwich, earth on the attack, a flower shop in the middle and stone, cold, stone on the finish. One of the champers of the event for me? Pierre Peters Cuvee Special, Les Cetillons Brut 2000, about $90. Afloral, succulent beauty with a long and sensual finish. I was happy, so happy, to revisit the individual champs of Billiot. The Brut 2004 had this wacky orange spice thing going on. (can't find the price, but should be around $65?) Camille Saves forever. Laherte rose saignee, which was from old pinot menuier vines was intense! It was like a man or woman, fragile in appearance and powerhouse of sensuality. ($85) And was happy to taste the unsulfured, no-dosage Drappier, not available in this country, but had me shaking my head, now how do they do it? The weirdest ? A sparkler from Catena, the Siesta. ($16) I swear if I tasted it blind? I'd think it was shiraz. Save it for cocktails, please! Post show revelers, drinking it up to Abe Schoener's amusement. And that night, instead of jazzing til the wee hours, I watched the volcano blow its top.