The Feiring Line

Thanksgiving wine: my sentimental choice

Stay with me, we'll end up with wine.

 

I was sixteen when my parents had the divorce of the century. Ever since I've been hiding from Thanksgiving. I learned early that when it came to this particular non-religious holiday, between the two of them, I was the wishbone. Each parent pulled for a piece. That left me left blowing pot out of the window wishing for a Solomon-like solution.

As soon as I could, I make good on my decision to avoid the holiday. During my Boston decade,  I told each parent I was working. This was often the truth.

After the day,  I'd sometimes duck my head into some dinner, then off to the Thanksgiving Dance (balance and swing), flirt my young ass off, bat the blonde eyelashes, go out after for a sweet hit of Steve's Ice Cream and give thanks that I was with friends. 

Decades later those early reactions still take up space. New York City doesn't have the fab dances of Boston, the actual day reminds me of gloomy Sundays, no matter how pleasant or how many people are around.

But there have been moments. My best ever Thanksgiving was during a cozy weekend at my friend's place in Walton.  It was snowing.  We looked out to crippled apple tree.  As if fingers on a ledge,yellow orbs of fruit clung to the tree. 

We harvested. I made the sweetest, tartest applesauce. Then it was a Thanksgiving dinner with turkey for the meat eaters (R and his brother E) and God knows what, it didn't matter, for me.

As sun slid down the mountains we trained the flashlight on the collection of wines I carried northwest for the occasion. Like campers waiting to be chosen for volleyball, they stood expectantly. Foillard and Lapierre were affordable and well represented.

It was then that I thought, if I had known about the wines of southern Burgundy when I was sixteen, I would have sailed through the conflicts, bolstered by the perfume of the wine I loved. 

The sentimental favorite for Thanksgiving for me? Gamay (from limestone or granite especially). When I want it built to last and all of the complexity that comes with the territory, I head to Beaujolais.

My wine choice-whether it's sitting home alone with a baked sweet potato or heading out to some shindig, that is not family-- has nothing at all to do with the nouveau hoopla which happens on the third thursday of November. That day, I feel, should stay in France, in Paris. The idea of shipping the stuff world wide is ludicrous to me, a waste of energy, calories and liver.  

Give me real Beaujo, then, this Thursday and forever.

But you know what the buzz is? That Beaujolais has gone back to being the hard sell it was before the 2009 vintage.

2009 was heralded as a breakthrough for the region. That was the year  wines were blowsy, alcoholic and New World-freakish (with some exception, of course). Parkerites and Spectorators decided to give the region their $.  The California cult drinkers came was well. Thanks to certain importers, the prices have escalated. Then sales stalled because the following vintages flummoxed those expecting the heft of a Californian wine.Seems like the affair was a one-vintage stand. 

Back here on Elizabeth Street, I couldn't wait for 2009 to fade and the more mannered Beaujolais to return.  

Don't get me wrong, I have no problem for a $25 gorgeous bottle, but $30-$40?   That's what you're likely to spend for Métras, Lapierre and Foillard. They are now officially off my budget. Can't be helped. But I don't suffer. And neither should you.  Instead of being the wishbone, we still can get  wish-fulfillment from any number of producers.

Want to know my go-to for everyday deliciousness including on the day or any day you want to chase the blues or bring on the celebration? Roland Pignard. Another? Bruno Debize. I promise you, you won't be sorry. And have a beautiful holiday.

 

(all wines come from The Feiring Line Newsletter)

 

                                   

 

                                            

 

 

  

 

 

                                                                                                                                                    

 

 

2008 Clos Siguier

Starving for an honest expression of Malbec (with a touch of Tannat)? I've neglected this Cahors  from Giles Bley for a while, and while I wasn't looking it popped. Beautifully. It's gorgeous. It's a jungian dream, anima and animus, high-toned whistling in the clay.

Intense and filled with silty , raspberry dreams while it digs deep into the limestone and clay Malbec hungry soil. 

Imported by Jenny & Francois, about $16.00. If you get the 09, if this is any indication, give it a year to lodge into the ether before you put it on the couch, or in a glass. 

Austrian Wine Surprises (Austria #6)

 Kremstalian Demeter certified Nicky Moser, makes a fine zweigelt and pinot. Yes, he was fascinated with a wine that was not his. This was something from the OTHER Salamon not imported into the US by TT, Fritz. "My wife will bring us down a bottle," he said.

 

He was far more interested in tasting me on his friends wines than his. When does this ever happen? The wine it turns out was a no -sulfur wine being made by Fritz since.....1995!!!

"I serve it by the glass in my restaurant," says Fritz, "They buy it because it's cheap. No one ever buys the bottle."

Yet is was that riesling that Nicky and I loved. Just loved. It might have been one of the most enjoyable swirl and spits of my visit. Butterscotch nose, seaweed, umami, smoky, tangy, brimming with piss and vinegar.Touch of honey and long lasting.  Admittedly, this was a very hard act for the Moser wines to follow. And Nicky is trying. He wants to go towards no -sulfur wines and Fritz is his inspiration. Hence his Minimal wines.  

Only sulfur at bottlings, 10 mg total. 

Brushstroke, Bouley's new babe

 I loved the look of the long gone restaurant Danube in Tribeca, it always made me want to show cleavage and risk high heels. But even though the interiors of Brushstroke , David Bouley's new kid is more Ikea than Klimpt, because of  Chef Yamada's precise food attack I'm hooked.   

While the New York Magazine review confused me, and I was left thinking that what Adam really craved was sushi instead of  kaiseki fashioned cuisine, there was one little morsel that was one of the most exciting tastes I've had in ages: fresh hearts of palm in a basil miso sauce. When even one bite in a restaurant causes a swoon, that is a restaurant worth risking all. This was a clean tasting hearts of palm pesto with such picquantry I had to resist the urge  to stuff  my mouth, ala potato chips. Of course the texture was different, almost like al dente artichoke heart but the impulse was to stuff my mouth, artlessly,  just can't stop eatin fastly and furiously. Of course, highly unacceptable, I  slowed down and toyed,  coaxed and savored, then cleaned the bowl with my finger.

That was one lovely treat for the taste buds. Other memorables was the new tasting use of green tea (think texture) in the cocktails, thanks to mixologist Gen Yamatoto. 

 
I also admit I'm a sucker for the use of lilac to decorate the plate.

 Young sommelier baby-faced Seju Yang, (pinched from 15east)put together a well thought through list peppered with the bulk in the $100-$300 range but was kind to the under $120 as well, and was thinking that it might be cool to return and try the J. Roty Marsannay (2002) for $75. I was tempted by the wine but I gave my self over to the sake. 

I admit, I sometimes get annoyed by the increasing volume and richness of the stuff, as if it is headed after the tropical chardonnay drinker. I know little about sake  making technology but I'm eager to taste natural yeasted stuff, or at least sake that takes the foot off of the aromatic yeast pedal. And that is exactly why I loved when he indulged me with a side by side tasting of Chikurin Junmai Ginjo sake; same producer, one organic, (Ecocert) and the other conventional.

Both Seju and I agreed that the organic sake was far more complex and interesting while the other was common.

 

 

 

Brushstroke, 30 Hudson Street (Duane Street). Dinner every night except Sundays, with menus starting at $85. (212) 791-3771.

 

 

 

Wine Recs over at New York Wine Salon

In case you didn't know, I'm giving weekly wine recommendations over at New York Wine Salon, a new site which celebrates the New York City wine scene. But with any luck, you can get the wines I'm talking about if you are very, very good and try hard enough. 

Oscars and Champagne, my story for Gourmet Live (for the ipad)

Well, I don't have an iPad, but my editor at GL just shared my story with me, so like, who says I can't be commercial! 

 

When the gossip columnists broke the news that Colin Firth celebrated his Best Actor Oscar® nomination with breakfast Champagne, I flipped the Google pages like a mad woman, itching to discover the specifics of which particular fizz the dashing actor swilled. But, instead of the essential detail, all I could find was his quote to the press, “I’m not used to this much joy, or this much Champagne, at this hour.”

Placing a call to Firth’s publicist in Los Angeles, I entreated her to help me capture the name of his preferred brand. At first she was confused, then she declined to help me find the answer. After all, who cared? ......by Alice Feiring

 

  Download Hollywood Pairs  for the full and exciting and thrilling story.

Angers & Renaissance (France 2011 #4)

Life on the road was intense. I changed hands and beds once more. Hooked up with my friend thegoddessofwine (yes, I know, but she's Linda, what are we going to do. She is the goddess as well as an amazing sommelier.) We were also meeting ma fille Francaise.   

who really should have won le meilleur sommelier de France, except she wasn't wearing une petite talon(high heels! more on that farce later).  The three of us are, and hopefully always will be....

 

               

photo by Annaick le Mignon

 

Look out!  

Our first stop was the  Renaissance tasting, Nicolas Joly's roving biodynamic wine show. This is one of the years best tasting. The level of high quality wine far outnumbers any other show I go to. Nicolas, by the way, was the first person I bumped into.

 Nicolas cracks me up. In fact over the next few days when I lapsed into oh-poor-me, I would think about him and start to belly laugh. Which in proper France brought side glances of shock and fear.

Near the coat rack we embraced and then he started to pick up exactly where we left off last February as if no time had past. Last year it was Haiti and the economy. This year the planets were in a different place and it was about Tunisia and Egypt. You see,  the planets were are all lined up somewhere underneath Orion's belt and long underwear. Last year it was doom, gloom and brimstone.This year it was the planets and Tunisia. All was good.  I went into the tasting in a fine mood, laughing.

Every one and his mother and uncle who ever lived in the United States was in that room. In fact, France was owned by the Americans this year, many of them looking to be the next Joe Dressner, if that could ever happen.

When Joe started out there were discoveries. Now, there are none. You're just not going to discover some savant shlep who's family has been making wine in a cave in some unknown appellation for six generations anymore. What you'll find are new kids on the block who are renting vines or others who have already recycled through importers, looking for love in all the wrong places. But yet,  yet. ...we tasted. 

What touched us? I hooked Linda's arm, Pierre André. 

"Chateauneuf?" she asked. Quelle horreur! No. 

In insisted. She was happy.

Jacqueline, Pierre's shy daughter took over years back. Old world here. This stuff is beautiful, refined even her white in the scary 2009 vintage. It was fresh!

Reds

2007: Fresh and depth.

2006  80% grenache with the rest syrah, mourvedre, cinsault etc, the wine is elegant, fresh, lovely and...balanced. 

2005 More tannic, and that old fashioned shit called garrique. Bring it on.

2004 Shut down. One direction. Okay. 

Alsatian producer, Francois Barmes, Barmes Buecher. New to me.  Glad we took the chance. Especially because he's got some vines in Hengst and Rosenberg. Lovely wines.

2008 Rosenberg: grapes were washed over stone. This is the one that grabbed me.

(honorable mention goes to Josmeyer, very over-looked winemaker in this market)

Highlights for me were:

Stella di Campalto wines from Montalcino. Gorgeous and inspiring rossos and brunellos.

Bedel Champagnes.

In Bordeaux? Sure! 2008 Gombaude-Guillot of  Pomerol as well as the 2008 Ch. le Puy (roasted fennel, limestone/star). 2008 was difficult but the people who worked organically/biodynamically seemed to sing.

I continue to love the Clos Canarelli from Corsica, especially the cuvée from anfora. The 2009 Oray which is pie franc, planted en foule was roasted plum and delicious.

The Tourraine's Clos Roche Blanche, ah..my DRC. The '10 sauvignon is just gorgeous with a high dose of elderflower. When I had the '10 gamay, tannic, structure and velvet.

Pineau d'aunis alert! In '10 there is a CRB red Arpent Rouge! There hasn't been one since 2006. (My wine of the year for 2007).Right now it's rough, and angular but it will come together and Didier is just going to bide his time til it's ready.   

Pithon Paille, Joe Pithon's comeback wines have hit their stride. '09 Les Treilles  was angular and austere, like peroxide washing the teeth but you have to trust me, exciting if too young. 

More Muscadet moments were had at Guy Bossard. 2010 gneiss, licorice on acid. limpid.

Orthogneiss- quieter, more restrained. 

Granite: floral, fruity, hints of vermont mountain. 

There was a muscadet for every mood. Terroir  is really fun.

Les Sablonettes? Oui.Christine & Joel Ménard make better and better wine every year. Look for them in 2010. From their cabernets, Le Petite Blanc to the Diable and the Pivoine

Then, contemplating it all, I  looked over at a New York  sommelier, tasting at Agnes Mosse. She is used to grand cru for breakfast. She looked as giddy as a princess who went to dance with the common people.

Have to say, am loving tasting 2010. Just loving it. 

Champagne for Bjork's New Year, 2011

The wind almost blew me off my bike, yet I arrived without incident. After locking my vehicle to the two-wheeled vehicle parking space in front of Astor Wines. I walked into the store, frozen, but came to life quickly because there is something magical about a wine store filled with people looking for help and it brings out the therapist in me. Though I was a miserable salesperson on the wholesale side, it turns out that I am brilliant on the floor where the extrovert in me sneaks out like Persephone from the other side. 

I sauntered down Astor's Champagne aisle to see what they had these days.

I had been feeling out of touch and wanted to see if what I thought was true: that one cannot get a decent bottle under $30.

True.

There is no wonder I am recommending sparklers from the Jura instead. Meanwhile, the champagne season is upon us and people will be wanting recommendations. So, while making notes what was available, I saw a slim, fashiony man in a short snorkel coat, fingering the Moet.

"Can I help you?" I asked him.

He was hesitant, and in a lovely Italian accent, tried to dismiss me. I insisted with uncharacteristic bravado, as if I was playing some grand role,  "I hope you don't mind but I really would love to help you choose a wonderful bottle and I know this area well." 

We perused the options in the under $41 category. Personally I would go for the Boulard Rosé ($39), which is wild and strawberry with a brilliant touch of volatility. Or the La Caravelle Blanc de Blancs ($36.), which I had the pleasure to have only once, last year in Louisiana, but was impressed with its clarity as well as nice squeeze of citrus. Either one, great deals. But I could see, he needed a box. There are sometimes that you need a box. 

I directed him to the Roederer Brut Premier-NV @ $41. Sold. I saved him from a fate of Moet, and all was good in the world. And while another five dollars would get him the glorious B&B of  Lassaigne, which can be found with its box, but they had none, sometimes you need a box.

Then he had a real question for me. "Do you know Bjork?"

Well, yes, not personally, but I live in the world and I often see her standing on Houston with mult-shopping bags of clothes hailing a cab.

"I'll be at her house on New Years Eve and do you have any suggestions? I was thinking of Dom Perignon."

Oh dear. First I had to steer him away from Moet, now I had to deal with the whammy of the 'DP' status. So I said, let's see if they have the 1996. That is the only vintage you should get.

They didn't.

Safe.

Then I said, you know how Hermes is really about quality but LVMH is all about image?  For all I knew, Arnault was his employer, but he understood. I followed up with , "Bjork is an organic kind of girl, if she or you ever saw the Moet vineyards, you'd swear you'd never buy another bottle."

Okay, he said. And we were off.

His budget was $200.  I thought of a magnum, but I didn't like the options at Astor. (Had we been at Chambers Street he could have purchased a magnum of the Gautherot-Vouette et Sorbée NV (2007) Blanc d'argile for $175. )

Astor still has a good champagne lineup but it has never reached the greatness when Jeff Connell, now departed for parts north, was its prince. On Thurday, @ Astor, there was one wine to go for; and it had to be Selosse.

Not Substance because the Substance can be awfully slutty, but the Initiale? Now that is cut from stone. $129. (He could have also gone for the Paillard 1996 @ $199, great vintage, lovely wine, not that I had it recently, but let's just say I wouldn't kick it out of bed.)The thought process clicked in motion. "I thought rich, exuberant, flashy, but an element of eccentricity but not over the top, I didn't want to risk it, but the wine had to have lots of  beauty and a story.

Never the less, I think the Bjork sensibility and the Selosse is a match made in heaven. 

I adore doing this kind of wine matchmaking, something like I did for the Plumber.  for one, I'm usually right. For two, I don't get blamed if the couple breaks up.

On this Christmas that fell on the day after the foggy moon, spend cleaning the bookshelves and the corners of my curly brain, I'll never know what the outspoken star thought of her bubbly, and that makes me sad. So if you happen to be at Bjork's this New Years, will you be my spy and let me know? 

 

 

Pity Poor Albariño

If there's justice, which is dubious, one day Albariño will have its soul and nature returned to it, and will cease to be this plump mouthed injectable creation it has become.

A similar body-snatching happened with Beaujolais when wine writers (many who should know better) started to perpetuate the myth that the grapes natural characteristics included  banana aromatics. So, many will be just as gullible to continue to propel this fallacy into the future unless we all stomp our feet and say, no no no!

Here's the bit of a press release that put me in a holiday snit.

"Albariño has a unique flavor and a natural acidity (SO MUCH THAT MOST IMPLEMENT ACID REDUCTION)  with a clean finish. The wine is often described as expressive, with peach and apricot notes, or crisp and refreshing, with intense fruit flavors, such as green apples and lemon zest. Albariño complements a variety of party favorites, such as bruschetta, baked brie (WHEN IS THE LAST TIME  YOU HAD A BAKED BRIE?), soups and chowders, ham, fruit cake, (FRUIT CAKE?? SWEETS? WHAT? THIS IS SOMEONE'S IDEA OF A BAD JOKE FOR WINE/FOOD PAIRINGS?) tarts and apple crisp.

About Albariño from Spain
Albariño (al-ba-ree-nyo) is a white grape varietal grown in the D.O. (Denomination of Origin) of Rías Baixas, located in Galicia on Spain's Northwest coast. Accounting for 90 percent of all plantings in Rías Baixas, Albariño wine has been likened to a Riesling for its minerality and bracing acidity; to a Viognier, because of its fleshiness (FLESHY? HOW MUCH GUM ARABIC IS GOING INTO YOUR ALBARINO?)and peach/apricot character.

 

What do I think Albarino is? High acid, lemon pith and peel and some orange, some times some green almond and sometimes a touch of cream. The nose is compelling, I stretch up on my toes for some descriptors, but the best I can do is spring right before zero summer. 

Here are two renegades who do the wines justice. 

BENITOS SANTOS (between $12-$18)

 2008 Albarino Sair: lemon, acid, profound nose, wool and honey perfume. 

2006 Albarino Pago de Bemil: round, deep, honey, acidity out of yummy control, salty. 

2007 Albarino Pago de Xoan: more acid freaky stuff with wool and lemon, a little closed but still sings.

 *PEDRALONGA  (between $30-$80)

2007 Albarno Barrica-acid sneaks up on you and wraps around the estony meyer lemon. 

2005 Vendetta: You might faint at the sight of the bottle price but these Vendettas are serious business and almost like a vendetta against the crap albarinos out there as if to say, fuck you guys. This is important. Listen up. The honey suckle here is what gets me. 

2006 Vendetta: I have a slight preference for the 06, seems to have more depth with a touch of hazel nut, lower aromatics yet increased layers of complexity. 

A Champagne for Us

Why do many people write  this up as Initial? Please tell me, there is an e right at the end, non?

 

a
A Blanc de Blancs, blend of three vintages, but which ones in this case? Aged three years on the lees, this most probably has  2000,2001 ,2002 as it was disgorged October 2006.  I've  never had an Initiale that disappointed. Some say too rich, some say too oaky (personally, I would save those descriptors for the Substance), to me, a great blend of rich and fresh, oxidized just the right amount, and brilliant with food. But I've already said too much, the label and scribbles should suffice.

and....will cost you about $130, if you need a gift and can get over the DP or GD syndrome, do it!